How to Save a Dying Maple Tree (And How to Identify Maple Decline)

Share this post:

Considering that maples can thrive for hundreds of years, it would be quite a shame to see their lifespan cut short.

Deep yet infrequent watering, smart pruning practices, soil testing, and protection from salty water and physical injury can all help you save your drying maple tree.

Today, I’ll go over the fatal issues, the salvaging tips, and the warning signs to look out for.

There’s one more thing.

No plant parent wants to hear it, but it’s possible you won’t notice the warning signs soon enough, and the maple might be too far gone by the time you realize something is wrong.

I’ll share some recommendations for these tough situations as well.

7 Reasons Why a Maple Tree Could Be Dying

Maple decline isn’t a new issue—it was documented as early as 1917. Plus, it happens in forests, sugar bushes, and urban sites all the same.

There are lots of reasons for maple tree decline, and most likely, it’s a mix of more than one stress factor.

Here’s a list of issues that could be killing your maple:

Maple decline isn’t a new issue—it was documented as early as 1917. Plus, it happens in forests, sugar bushes, and urban sites all the same.

There are lots of reasons for maple tree decline, and most likely, it’s a mix of more than one stress factor.

Here’s a list of issues that could be killing your maple:

• Drought
• Nutrient deficiency and subpar soil quality
• Runoff water loaded with road salt
• Sidewalk construction nearby
• Infections (root rot, sap streak, etc.)
• Repeated trunk injury (from lawnmowers, bad pruning, or animals)
• Poorly-handled transplanting stress

5 Tips for Saving a Dying Maple Tree

Even if your tree is in bad shape, there’s a chance it’ll bounce back if you get to the root of the issue(s) and tackle it in time.

Here are some tips to help you save the declining maple:

1 – Regulate Your Watering Schedule

Out of all the possible reasons, underwatering is the most likely culprit—for established trees, at least.

Ideally, you want to water deeply and rather infrequently. So, instead of spraying the tree lightly for 5 minutes every day, you should soak the roots (get the water 6–12 inches deep) once every 1–2 weeks.

You can use a hose with a slow stream or set up a drip irrigation system. Don’t use a sprinkler, though. Sprinklers might leave the bark and exposed roots wet, which can encourage decay.

2 – Divert De-Icing Salt Away From the Tree

If road salt is used a lot around your garden, some runoff water loaded with sodium or chloride can eventually make its way to the maple.

I’d recommend building physical barriers to divert this salt-loaded runoff water away. Think ditches, berms, or curbs.

3 – Do a Soil Test and Use a Fertilizer

Is your maple showing signs of malnutrition (like off-color leaves)?

If so, it might be time to go for a fertilizing dose. Just make it a slow-release one. A fast-release fertilizer may leave salt deposits, hindering the healing process.

Generally speaking, high-nitrogen fertilizers aren’t ideal for silver and Japanese maples.

But it’s always better to do a soil test before actually fertilizing the soil. I know taking samples and sending them to your local Cooperative Extension office seems like a hassle, but I promise it’s worth it.

Plus, the test results might show that the pH levels are off and need adjustment. For reference, red maples prefer a pH of 5.5 to 6.0, but the recommended level will change based on the maple type.

4 – Prune Away the Declining Parts (But Do It Wisely!)

Fertilizing might give the suffering maple the needed building blocks it needs to jump back on track. But the last thing you want is for this energy to go to waste on dying parts.

A bit of pruning will help you get rid of all the dead weight (no pun intended), improve the airflow, promote healing, and even reduce the risk of a large branch falling off on someone.

You should target dead branches, water sprouts (suckers), and infected leaves (look for aphids on the underside of the leaves).

Pruning isn’t as simple as grabbing a pair of garden shears and going to town, though. If you prune wrong, you’ll do more damage, so check out these tips first:

• Aim to prune around the early spring.
• Disinfect the shears to reduce the risk of contamination and infection spreading.
• Cut about half an inch from the truck. Make sure you don’t injure the trunk.
• To remove water suckers, dig a bit, cut flush with the root ball, and replace the soil.

5 – Don’t Mow Your Lawn up to the Trunk

Unfortunately, it’s easy to accidentally injure the trunk with a lawn mower.

You can try to be precise all you want. Or you can just avoid mowing right up to the trunk.

I’d go with the second option if I were you.

But what about the overgrown weeds and grass, you ask? Well, you can mulch under the tree (3 inches deep in a 3-foot radius ) to insulate and suppress weed growth.

That said, too much mulch can also hurt the maple. Don’t put the mulch too close to the root ball or heap it up, so that it touches the trunk. It’s good to leave a 3-inch space around the trunk itself.

You can pull up weeds and rake dead leaves with your hands before mulching, too.

5 Clear Symptoms of Maple Decline

Here’s the thing with maple decline: it doesn’t happen overnight.

Your tree will show you plenty of warning signs before it’s too far gone, including:

• Stunted Growth: Maple twigs should show growth of around 2 inches each year. You should start worrying if the distance from one bud scar to another is less than 2 inches.
• Premature Fall Colatation: If the leaves on your tree show their fall colors by late July or early August, it could be in decline. The coloration normally starts after the first frost.
• General Foliage Changes: Pale-colored leaves that are smaller in size and fewer in quantity than in the past can be a symptom of maple decline.
• Large Dying Areas: An abundance of dead branches and twigs is a sign your tree is suffering.
• Frequent Infestations: Maple decline leaves the tree susceptible to secondary infestations.

Is My Maple Beyond Saving?

It’s sad to admit this, but not all dying maples can be saved.

Maybe you tried all the suggestions above, and the maple still didn’t bounce back. Maybe the roots are too rotten to treat.

Some people like to do the scratch test to see if a tree is still alive.

However, I think it’s good to know when to stop and leave it to the professionals. An arborist will be able to check if total removal is the only way to go.

Plus, even if the maple is salvageable, the treatment itself can be tricky. Take pruning, for instance. It can be really hard to do it right on a tree with extensive damage.

Final Thoughts

Fingers crossed, your maple isn’t too far gone.

A bit of pruning, regulated water intake, and some injury prevention tips will go a long way in the healing process.

But the trick is to balance patience with the wisdom to know when to let the tree go and start fresh!

Share this post: